Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Chocolate Egg Cream

For me, Brooklyn was a time as well as a place. The Brooklyn I knew, growing up, was Pee Wee and Jackie, Gil Hodges and the Duke, corned beef or pastrami on rye, reubens, Nova and sturgeon from a host of appetizing stores, cheese blintzes, knishes, Blackout cakes from Ebbinger's, French baked delights from Sutter's, fresh fish caught at Sheepshead Bay, gaslight dinners at Gage and Tolner, seafood at Lundy's, hot dogs at Nathan's, the best Italian and chinese food, and chocolate egg creams. Many of these no longer exist. The Dodgers are gone; the large Jewish, Italian, and Irish immigrant populations are gone. A new multiracial middle class is emerging and gentrified areas are giving the borough a rebirth with new restaurants galore. But the old ethnic Brooklyn and its wonderful tastes are gone. in the following posts, I will show some of the dishes and drinks that were popular in Brooklyn and New York City in general in the fifty's and sixty's of my youth.

The Chocolate Egg Cream was a fixture in every corner luncheonette. This fizzy chocolate drink has no eggs and no cream, just milk, seltzer and Fox's U-Bet chocolate syrup. No other chocolate syrup works here. I recently bought Egg creams in a shop in Manhattan and a shop in Pittsboro, NC. They tried, but their effors failed because they did not use Fox's U-Bet. Here's how to make an great Egg Cream:

2 to 3 ounces Fox's U-Bet (Available in many supermarkets)
4 ounces very cold milk
Cold seltzer (great from a soda fountain, can also work from a soda bottle.)

1. Pour about 1 inch of chocolate syrup in a tall soda glass
2. Stir in the milk
3. Tilt the glass and squirt in seltzer aimed at a long handled spoon. This willl cause a white foam on top. Mix everything with the spoon and drink immediately.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Paella

Here's another dish that's a WOW. Paella is a beloved specialty in Spain. It is traditionally cooked in a low sided steel Paella pan, but if you do not own one, a large skillet will suffice. There is a marvelous book called "Paella" by Penelope Casas who used to be my downstairs neighbor in New York. She writes "paella, the vibrant Spanish rice dish loved the world over. Paella marries the robust Mediterranean flavors of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and peppers with rice, broth and meat, fish, or vegetables to create a healthy grain-based meal that will gratify the senses and be the centerpiece for exciting entertaining." The folliwing recipe is not from Penny's book.

Spice mixture for the chicken:
1 T. smoked paprika
2 tsp. dried oregano
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 chicken cut into 8 to 10 pieces or chicken thighs
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 chorizo sausages (preferably from Spain and not from Mexico)
(Chorizo and other Spanish food items can be purchased on line from La Tienda)
1/2 Spanish onion, diced
4 garlic gloves crushed
Bunch Italian (flat leaf) parsley, chopped. Reserve some for garnish
1 can whole tomatoes, drain and crush by hand
1 1/2 cups aborio rice for a small paella pan
3-4 cups aborio rice for a large paella pan
3-6 cups chicken broth
1 oz. saffron threads
1 oz. littleneck clams
1/2-1 lb. large shrimps, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup sweet peas, frozen and thawed
roasted peppers
lemon wedges for garnish

1. Rub spice mixture all over chicken and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator

2. In a large skillet, heat the broth and saffron, smoked paprika and 1 whole onion. Cover the pan and simmer 15 minutes. Remove the onion.

3. Heat olive oil in the paella pan over medium heat. Saute the chorizo until browned; remove the chorizo and reserve. Add chicken, skin side down and brown on all sides, turning with tongs. Add salt and papper to taste. Cook chicken until it reaches an internal temperature of 155 degrees. Remove from pan and reserve the chicken. The chicken will continue to cook when transfrerred to the rice and will be cooked through when it reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees.

4. In the same pan, make a sofrito by sauteeing minced onion, garlic and parsley. Cook for 2-3 minutes over medium heat.

5. Fold in the rice and stir to coat the grains. Pour in hot chicken broth and simmer for 10 minutes.

6. Maintaining low heat, add the reserved chicken and chorizo.

7. Add clams.Cook peas according to package directions.

8. After 15 minutes, add shrimps. Shrimps are cooked after 2-3 minutes as they turn pink. Add a little broth if needed.

9. Remove clams as they open; If they do not open, discard them. Remove shrimp, remove chicken and reserve.

10. Paella is cooked when rice looks fluffy and moist. Turn up the heat for the last 40 seconds until you smaell the rice toast on the bottom.

11. Remove from heat and garnish with cooked peas, parsley, roasted red peppers or pimientos and lemon wedges.

Arroz Con Pollo

This as an adaptation of a recipe that I read in the New York Times about 35 years ago. It never fails to garner positive comments from my friends; And my Puerto Rican and Cuban friends loved this version.

1 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
2 to 4 gloves garlic, minced
1 carrot, chopped
1/2 green pepper, seeded, chopped
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1 cup frozen peas
1 4 3/4 0z. jar green olives with pimientos
1 T. vino seco (a salty white wine available in the supermarket)
3 cups saffron yellow rice (mahatma, brand name)
4 pimientos
1 T. kosher salt
1 3 to 4 pound chicken cut into 8 pieces


1. Heat olive oil in a large heavy skillet. Add chicken parts and onions in one layer. Cook slowly without browning for about 10 minutes.

2. Mash the salt and garlic together on the cutting board or in a mortar and pestle until they form a paste. Add the salt/garlic mixture to the chicken. Add enough water or chicken broth to cover the chicken.

3. Add the carrots, green pepper, tomato sauce, peas, olives and vino seco. Bring the liquid to a boil; lower the temperature and simmer for about 10 minutes to meld the flavors.

4. Add the saffron rice, return to a boil, lower the temperature and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes or until water is absorbed and the chicken is tender. The internal temperature of the chicken when tested with an instant read thermometer should be about 165 degrees.

5. Add pimientos as a garnish.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Hummus

Hummus is a very popular appetizer in the Middle East; in the Arab countries, in Israel, in Greece and Turkey. You can serve hummus with an assortment of lemon wedges, kalamata olives, vegetables, and pita triangles. In the Middle East it is traditional to make a small well in the top of the hummus and pour in a bit of fruity olive oil to give it a silky texture.


1 15 1/2 oz. can chickpeas, drained (reserve 1/3 cup liquid)(reserve a few whole chickpeas for garnish)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic
3 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 T. sesame tahini
1 T. sesame oil
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 T. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 roasted red pepper (from a jar)
2 scallions, finely sliced
Pinch of ground cummin
Raw vegetables (optional)
pita triangles

1. Place chickpeas in a food processor or blender. Add the olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, tahini, sesame oil, salt and pepper to taste, cilantro, red pepper, scallions and process until smooth. Add the reserved chickpea liquid to modulate the desired consistency (thick for a spread, slightly thiner for a dip.)

2. Transfer the Hummus to a large plate or shallow serving bowl, sprinkle with sesame seeds or parsley, cummin, and a few whole chickpeas; surround with pita triangles.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Guacamole

This Guacamole is a wonderful dip for black corn and white corn tortilla chips and nachos, and it can also be served as an intriguing sandwhich spread. The inclusion of sour cream and the optional bacon enliven this old-time mexican favorite.

5 slices bacon (optional)
3 Hass avocados, halved seeded and cubed
1 tomato, diced
1/2 large red onion, diced
2 T. sour cream
1 jalapeno or serano chili, seeded, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 T. cilantro, chopped
3 T. fresh lime juice
kosher salt if necessary

1. (optional) Place a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add bacon and cook until crisp. Remove from pan and place on absorbant paper towels to dry and cool completely.

2. In a bowl, mash the avocados with a fork until they are almost smooth, like a chunky puree. Fold in the tomato, sour cream, bacon bits and onion. Add the lime juice, chili, garlic and cilantro; season, if necessary with salt (the bacon may add enough salt). Chill and serve with corn chips and nachos.

Garlic Bread with Gorgonzola sauce

Uzie's was an excellent Northern Italian restaurant on New York's Upper East Side. I never ate there, but several of their surviving recipes really captivated my taste buds. Their Pollo Scapariello for example, was one of the best I've made. Here is one of their other offerings I'm sure you'll enjoy. It's a great first course and goes well with a fresh green salad and Dijon mustard vinaigrette.

Garlic Bread with Gorgonzola Sauce

2 loaves Italian Bread
1/3 cup olive oil
1 T. minced garlic
Pinch of oregano
Pinch of basil
Gorgonzola Sauce

1. Cut bread lengthwise and brush with mixture of olive oil and spices.
2. Treansfer bread to broiler and cook until lightly browned. Cut bread into 2-inch pieces and pour gorgonzola sauce over the pieces. Serve hot.

Gorgonzola Sauce

6 T. unsalted butter
1 T. shallot, minced
1 T. garlic, minced
5-6 T. flour
1 pint light cream
1/2 pound Gorgonzola cheese
1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat large skillet over medium-low heat. Add garlic and shallots and simmer until soft. Add 5-6 T. flour, combine and stirring constantly to remove lumps.
2. Add cream, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Turn off heat; add gorgonzola cheese, stirring until blended. Add parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 6-8

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Creole Style Shrimp and Scallop Bordelaise

The Creoles adapted the classic French Sauce Bordelaise which is a reduction of red wine, brown stock and bone marrow to a wonderful sauce made of olive oil, butter garlic and parsley. This recipe dresses large shrimps and scallops into a delicious dish served with angel hair pasta or an onion flavored rice.


1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic
1 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined
1 pound sea scallops, quartered
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup parsley, chopped


Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Briefly Saute the garlic until softened. Add shrimp and scallops in one layer. Cook for about 2 minutes, turning when the shellfish have browned. Add salt, pepper and parsley and cook for another minute. Transfer to a warm platter. Serve with rice or angel hair pasta.


Onion Flavored Rice

2 cups yellow onions, chopped
3 T. unsalted butter
2 cups rice such as basmati
1 cup dry white wine
3 cups low sodium chicken broth
2 tsp. turmeric
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste

Heat butter in large skillet over medium-high heat; add onions and saute until they begin to brown. Add rice to pan and mix to combine for 1 minute. Add the wine, turmeric, broth, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, stir with a fork and cover pan. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 17-18 minutes or until all the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from heat and let the rice rest for several minutes. Remove cover and toss with a fork; serve with Shrimp and Scallops Bordelaise over the rice.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Shrimp Francese

Chicken Francese is a popular and delicious dish appearing on many menus in the New York Metropolitan area. Francese means "in the French manner" and refers to food dipped in egg, sauteed and then enhanced with a lemon-butter sauce. This recipe was adapted from the few recipes for chicken Francese I am aware of. Chicken Francese does not appear in any cookbooks currently in print and to my knowledge there is no recipe for shrimp Francese anywhere.


1 pound large shrimp, cleaned and deveined
2-3 eggs
1 cup all purpose flour for dredging
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
4 T. unsalted butter
4 T. dry vermouth
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley

Place the flour in a shallow platter and season it with salt and pepper. In a deeper bowl, beat the eggs and 3 T. water. Heat a large skillet over a medium-high flame.

Dredge the shrimp in the seasoned flour and then dip them in the egg wash. Add butter and olive oil to the pan. When the froth subsides, add the shrimp and cook them for about 2 minutes until they turn pink. Remove the shrimp and set aside on a warm platter while making the sauce.

Add the vermouth, chicken broth and lemon juice to the hot pan. Bring to a boil and let the mixture reduce by about one half until it is slightly thickened.

Pour the sauce over the shrimp and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve hot.

Serves 4

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Risotto with mushrooms and sauteed shrimp

Risotto is a very popular Northern Italian starch that combines the crunchy yet creamy taste of short grain aborio rice. And since the risotto has a neutral flavor, you can incorporate the more pronounced flavors of parmesan cheese, dried mushrooms, shell fish or herbs. A basic risotto (cooked without extra ingredients) can be served as a side dish to more complex offerings such as roasts or braised meats.


1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2/3 cup boiling water
1 cup clam juice
1/2 pound button mushrooms
1/2 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
8 cups chicken stock
4 T. butter
1 T. Olive oil
1 medium onion
2 cups Aborio rice
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
butter for garnish
1/2 cup parmesan cheese

1. Reconstitute the dried mushrooms by placing them in a small bowl with boiling water for about 10-15 minutes until the mushrooms have softened. Srain the liquid through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth. Rinse the mushrooms, being sure to remove any remaining grit, Chop them. Combine the broth, clam juice with the mushroom liquid and simmer.

2. In a large, heavy pot, simmer the chicken stock.

3. Sautee the onion in butter and olive oil for 5 minutes. Add garlic, cook and stir about 2 minutes. Add button mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes. Add wine and cook until absorbed. Add rice and cook until the grains are coated with butter.

4. Add dried mushrooms and 1/2 cup of the simmering stock and stir until the stock has been almost completely absorbed. Continue cooking rice, adding 1/2 cup of stock at a time, constantly stirring and waiting until almost all the broth is absorbed before adding more broth. When 1/3 of the broth has been absorbed, add the bay leaf and a pinch of safron threads. Continue adding broth and stirring.

5. When almost all liquid has been absorbed, add parsley, paresan cheese, sauteed shrimp and butter.

6. Stir rice to mix all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Transfer rice to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Serves 6

Friday, November 14, 2008

Chicken Scarpiello

I have eaten this dish in many Italian restaurants. Some restaurants cook the chicken off the bone, drying it out. Chicken cooked on the bone is significantly more suculent. In this version we are adding sweet Italian sausage chunks, sweet pepper strips, potato and mushroom to a lemon-wine sauce Since this dish is not Italian, but Italian American, I feel we can enhance it to suite our own tastes. This intriguing blend of flavors and textures adds greatly to the natural taste of the chicken.

2 cornish hens or poussins, cut at the joints
kosher salt to taste
3/4 cup corn oil
flour
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound sweet Italian sausage without fennel
1 lemon, zested
4 T. lemon juice
4 T. dry vermouth
4 T. low sodium chicken broth
10 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly smashed but left whole
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 5-inch sprig fresh rosemary
1 baking potato cut into cubes
2 red roasted peppers julienned
5 mushrooms, sliced
1/4 T. butter
1. In a small bowl, mix together the lemon zest, lemon juice, vermouth and chicken broth. Set aside.

2. Pour corn oil into large skillet and turn heat to medium.

3. Season chicken with salt, pepper and lightly dredge in flour.

4. Add chicken to hot oil and saute for 5 minutes or until almost cooked through. Remove chicken to warm platter and fry potatoes for 5 minutes. Broil sausage pieces for 10 minutes.

5. In a separate pan, saute garlic in 1 T. oil until brown but not burned. Add the chicken, butter, salt, pepper, potato, sausage, rosemary, and mushrooms. Cook for 4 minutes. Add the lemon-wine-broth mixture and continue cooking a few minutes until the liquid has reduced to a glaze on the chicken. Serve immediately with chopped parsley as a garnish.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Southern Fried Chicken

Most cookbooks have a recipe for Southern Fried chicken. This is by far my favorite. The mixture of buttermilk and tabasco and the herb and peppered flour give it a crisp flavorful crust and a juicy interior. You'll never buy chicken from a colonel again.

One 3 to 4 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1/4 tsp. tabasco
1 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 to 2 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 T. dry mustard
1 T. paprika
2 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
2 large eggs
2 T. water
3 cups corn oil for frying


Place chicken pieces in large glass or aluminum bowl and add buttermilk to cover. Add tabasco and turn the pieces to ensure that they are thoroughly coated with the buttermilk. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour or longer to absorb the tabasco flavor.

Combine the flour, salt, black pepper, mustard, garlic powder, onion powder in a medium bowl and blend well.

Whisk eggs and water together. Transfer chicken pieces to a paper towel to absorb a little bit of the buttermilk mixture. Then dip the chicken in the egg wash to coat completely and dredge the chicken in the flour mixture.

Heat corn oil in a black iron skillet or a similar pan large enough to hold the chicken pieces in one layer without touching. When heat is high, add chicken pieces, skin side down, and cook until golden brown on one side. Turn the chicken and reduce heat to medium low. Continue cooking until the pieces are golden brown and cooked through. The internal temperature should be about 165 degrees. Remove chicken and let rest on absorbant towel for about 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 4

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Giuseppe's Mouthwatering Meatballs and Spaghetti

I have ordered Meatballs and spaghetti in restaurants on several occasions and I was always dissatisfied. The restaurants were well known and the chefs were all professionals and each time their efforts failed miserably. I knew meatballs and spaghetti should be great since most Italians love this dish when it's prepared at home. It took a while for me to also develop a great tasting dish. Thanks to different ideas from Giada, Rocco's mom, Johanne Killeen and my butcher in Beechhurst, NY, I believe have a terrific winner here.


For the Meatballs:
12 ounces ground beef (chuck works well)
2 slices white sandwhich bread, remove crust and cut into small pieces
1/4 cup Italian bread crumbs
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup pecorino romano or parmigiano-reggiano cheese
3/4 cup milk
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
pinch nutmeg
1/2 yellow onion, diced
2 garlic cloves diced
1/8 tsp. red pepper flakes,crushed
1/3 cup olive oil
mozzarella cheese, grated
Fresh basil leaves
1 T. flat leaf parsley

For the Sauce:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup yellow onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup good young red wine, such as chianti
1 (28 oz.) can, whole, peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, drained and crushed by hand. You can also use crushed tomatoes
1 T. fresh flat leaf parsley, shopped
Kosher salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
a few sprigs of fresh basil

For Serving:
1 pound spaghetti, cooked according to package directions. Drained with some olive oil. Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water

Meatballs:
Place bread and bread crumbs, parsley, onion, parmigiano reggiano or pecorino romano cheese, garlic, basil, red pepper flakes, beaten egg, salt, pepper, nutmeg and 3/4 cup warm milk in a bowl and mix together. Add ground meats and combine thoroughly with a fork. (Using the fork will prevent over mixing and compacting which can toughen meatballs.) Put a little olive oil on your hands and form mixture into balls about the size of golf balls. You should have about 8 or 9 meatballs.

Pour about 1/2 inch of olive oil into a straight sided 10 inch pan and heat over medium flame. Add the meatballs to the pan (working in batches if necessary) and brown meatballs. (At this stage, they should be rare. They will cook through later in the tomato sauce.) Browning the meaballs will take about 10 minutes. Remove the meatballs to a warm plate covered with a paper towel. Discard the oil but do not clean the pan.

For the sauce, heat the oilive oil in the same pan. Add the onion and saute over medium heat until translucent, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the wine, cook on high, and with a wooden spoon scrape up all the brown bits in the pan. (There is intense flavor in those brown bits.) Stir in the tomatoes, salt and peper.

Transfer the meatballs the sauce, cover and simmer on the lowest heat for 25 to 30minutes,or until the meatballs are cooked through. With 5 minutes remaining, shower with mozzarella and scatter half of the basil leaves on top. Drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil over the mixture. Serve the dish hot and pass grated parmigiano-reggiano or a cheese grater and a black pepper mill around the table.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

An Important Word About Some Common Cooking Ingredients

BUTTER-Salt butter is tasty on English muffins and makes toast more palatable. But when cooking, please, always use unsalted butter. The rule among professional chefs is that unsalted butter allows you to control the amount of salt in a recipe’s salt content. Salted butter can contain up to 3% salt-about ¾ tsp. per stick.

SALT- When cooking, kosher salt is the best. With its coarse grain, it is superb for seasoning foods, because it’s easy to sprinkle evenly and because it does not contain magnesium carbonate, it will not cloud items to which it is added. Almost all chefs use kosher salt.

When baking on the other hand, table salt is the best, for two reasons. First, Kosher salt which is made up of large, flaky crystals, does not dissolve as readily as table salt. Second, when sifting dry ingredients together kosher salt can’t pass through the mesh sieve, keeping it from distributing evenly.

SEA-SALT -is made by allowing sea water to evaporate, leaving behind salt crystals. In its unrefined state, it may be known as “sel gris”, French for “Grey salt.” These salts are prized for their taste.

If you’ve over salted soup or vegetables, add raw potatoes and discard them once they have cooked and absorbed the salt.

PEPPER- Use a pepper mill to make fresh ground black pepper.

OILS- We all have our favorite tasting oils. In addition, be aware that cooking oils need to withstand medium-high or high heat without smoking. Most refined vegetable oils sold in the supermarkets with smoke points ranging from 400 to 500 degrees, unless labeled “unrefined” or “cold pressed”, are good choices for sautéing.

OLIVE OIL, with a smoke point of 320 degrees is best used in salads and low heat sautéing, but the less expensive pure olive oil has a smoke point of 410 degrees and can be used in high heat cooking.

CANOLA OIL is the darling of nutritionists because it contains mostly monounsaturated fat. It’s fine for most cooking with a smoke point of 400 degrees.

Among the boutique oils, grapeseed oil has a relatively high smoke point (420 degrees) and a light, fruity flavor.

SUBSITUTING DRIED HERBS FOR FRESH HERBS- Fresh herbs enliven many dishes, but are not always available or practical. The best herbs for using dry are the sturdy ones, such as marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme. They’re most effective when added at the beginning of recipes that contain ample liquid.

Dried tender herbs, including basil, cilantro, dill, and tarragon don’t have the appealing fragrance of fresh. But in a pinch, dried versions can be used, as long as they’re added toward the end of cooking.

Baked Fish with Fennel and Pernod

1 tsp. fennel seeds
3 T. olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 large fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced lengthwise (about 4 cups)
1 T. grated orange zest
2 cups (12 oz.) peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes (optional)
4 cod, flounder or sea bass fillets, 5-6 oz. each
1 cup (8 fl oz.) dry white wine
1/4 cup (2 fl oz.) Pernod
fennel feathers (fronds) or chopped fresh mint for garnish

Place the fennel seeds in a small, dry frying pan over medium-low heat and toast, shaking occasionally, until fragrant, 4-5 minutes. Transfer to a mortar and pulverize with a pestle. Alternatively, pulverize in a spice grinder.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

In a large saute pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion and saute, stirring, until tender and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the sliced fennel and saute toe 3-4 minutes. Add the ground fennel seeds, orange zest, and the tomatoes, is using, and cook for 2 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Distribute the fennel mixture among 4 individual baking dishes or place in 1 large baking dish. Place the fish fillets atop the fennel. Sprinkle with salt and papper. Combine the wine and pernod and pour over the fish.


Bake until the fish is opaque when tested with a knife, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle with Fennel feathers or mint and serve at once.

Serves 4

Monday, November 3, 2008

Chicken Stuffed with Potatoes and Olives

Here's another strange sounding dish. Who ever heard of stuffing a chicken with potatoes and green olives. This may have been a peasant dish in Italy where it had its origens. This is another clever recipe from The Frugal Gourmet.

3 or 4 medium new potatoes, unpeeled, cooked and cubed
8 to 10 T. stuffed green olives
1 T. Fresh rosemary
3 to 4 T. chopped fresh parsley
2 cloves garlic crushed
3 canned anchovies, mashed or anchovy paste
(anchovies enhance other flavors without overpowering with their own taste which some people find objectionable)
1 T. chopped capers, optional but they add alot to the dish
3 T. olive oil (pure olive oil has a higher smoke point then virgin olive oil and it's a lot cheaper, so it is preferred here.)
kosher salt and pepper to taste
1 3 to 4 pound chicken
Bell's seasoning


Place the potatoes in a pot of boiling water and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes

After the potatoes have cooled, place all the ingredients exept the chicken and Bell's seasoning in a large bowl. Toss the ingredients together .

Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper and some Bell's seasoning. stuff the chicken loosely and place in a roasting pan. Add the remaining stuffing around the chicken. It will pick up flavor from the juices.

Roast at 350 degrees for about 1 hour until an instant read thermometer placed in the breast reads 175 degrees and the thigh reads about 165 degrees.

You must let the chicken rest on a carving board for at least 5 to 10 minutes so that the juices can be redistribued in the bird. If you carve the bird or any other meat immediately, the juices will run out on the board rather than keeping the meat moist.

Pot Roast with Dill Pickes

Pot Roast with pickles may seem strange and even stranger if you add some sour cream. But trust me, it's great. You may want to use a leaner cut than chuck roast because this is a rich dish, but chuck roasts are very flavorful and easier on the pocketbook than many other cuts. This recipe is a polish item that was written by the Frugal Gourmet. He had a tragic private life, but his recipes were above reproach.

3 pounds chuck roast
1 T. peanut oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped
3 or 4 dried mushrooms
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup beef stock
3 dill pickles, chopped
1 cup sour cream

Add oil to a 12 inch skillet; brown the roast well on all sides (be sure that the pan is hot before you add the oil and the meat.)

Transfer the meat to a covered casserole, with the remaining ingredients exept the sour cream. Simmer for about 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Add the sour cream and simmer for about 1/2 hour. Slice and serve with the sauce on top.

Viennese Chicken Delight

Viennese cuisine is characterized by international influences, some French, some Italian, some German; it is a cuisine of comfort foods. This dish artfully blends the wonderful flavors of sherry, onions, garlic, tomatoes, sour cream and Swiss cheese to develop a delicious Viennese flavor. It is one on my favorites and will become one of your favorites too.

4 to 4 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1/4 cup melted butter
2 T. sherry
1 clove garlic, minced
2 T. onions, minced
3 Roma tomatoes, sliced
1 T. tomato paste
3 T. flour
2 cups low sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup shredded almonds
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 bay leaf
3/4 cup sour cream
3/4 cup Swiss cheese, grated

1. Lightly season chicken with salt and pepper.
2. Brush chicken with melted butter on both sides
3. Add sherry, cook for 1 minute over moderate heat.
4. Add garlic, onions, tomatoes, cook for 2 1/2 minutes over moderate heat.
5. Remove from heat, add tomato paste and flour; whisk the tomato mixture until smooth.
6. Add chicken broth; bring to a boil.
7. Add almonds, salt and bay leaf.
8. Return chicken to the pan, cover and cook over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes or until cooked through.
9. In a small saucepan, blend 3/4 of the Swiss cheese and 3/4 cup sour cream; simmer until blended.
10. Pour over chicken, top with more Swiss cheese and place under broiler to brown.
11. Serve with large buttered egg noodles.

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Jewish Chicken Soup

This morning I'll talk about chicken soup for the wallet and chicken soup for the pot. First the wallet; the stock market is indeed showing signs of a little recovery this weekend. Without getting too technical, several of my indicators are pointing to a rally. This is despite the lead story in the NY Times talking about deflation.


And now the pot; If you have only experienced chicken soup from a can, or some oversalted crud in a restaurant, you are in for a treat. I have wonderful memories of the aromas wafting from my mother's kitchen before the Jewish holidays when she would prepare delectable homemade meals beginning with chicken soup and knaidlach (dumplings). I would like to share these pleasures with you.

Whenever I cut up a chicken, I reserve the back, neck, wing tips and gizzards and whenever I finish a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano, I save the rind and freeze both of them for the next soup.

3 pounds chicken pieces
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp. fresh thyme
12 peppercorns
2 ribs celery
2 onions with whole cloves stuck in them
3 small carrots, in chunks
2 garlic cloves, lightly smashed
6 sprigs parsley
1 turnip, cut into chunks
1 parmigiano-Reggiano rind
1 T. salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
10 cups water

Combine chicken parts, celery, onion,carrots in a roasting pan with a little salt and pepper and drizzle of olive oil. Cook at 375 degrees for 30 minutes.

Transfer roasted ingredients and all other ingredients to a large stockpot with 10 cups of water, so that chicken and other ingredients are covered.

Place pan over moderate heat and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam or scum with a large spoon. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered for about 3 hours. If water evaporates and chicken is uncovered, top off with a little boiling water.

Remove solids and strain soup through a sieve. You can continue to simmer soup for a few hours to intensify the soup's flavor.

Taste the soup and adjust seasonings. If you were too generous with salt, don't get frantic, add cut raw potatoes and discard once they have cooked and absorbed the salt.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Some Thanksgiving Sides

Joe's Mom's Molded Cranberry with Mixed Fruits

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 package jello, cherry or raspberry
1 package fresh cranberries, rinsed and picked over
1 can mixed fruit

Place sugar and water in medium sized saucepan and combine until dissolved. Add jello and let liquid stand for 5 minutes. Place pan over high heat, stirring until jello is totally dissolved. Inrease heat and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cook, stirring for 10 minutes.

Off heat, transfer mixture to a food processor. Puree mixture, add mixed fruit and pour into a well oiled mold. Cool to room temperature and when firm, refrigerate overnight.

Invert mold over serving plate and cover with a warm towl.


Beth Spizer's Jello Melange

At our last Thanksgiving in New York, Beth, who is part of our extended family brought this dish. It has been in her family for many years. We were both surprised and delighted .

2 packages raspberry jello
1 can blueberries
1 can crushed pineapples
8 oz. sour cream
8 oz. cream cheese
1-2 bags pecans
1/2 cup sugar

1. mix jello with hot water
2. Mix blueberries and pineapple with their juices. Do not add extra cold water
3. In a 9 by 7 inch pan, combine berries with jello and congeal jello in the refrigerator
4. Mix together cream cheese, sour cream and sugar
5. Spread cream cheese mixture over jello mold and sprinkle pecans on top

Thursday, October 30, 2008

A Technical View of The Stock Market from The South

October 30, 2008
Dow-9,079


In addition to being a foodie, I am also a retired stock broker, securities analyst and technical market analyst. So from time to time I will favor you with my thoughts on the stock market. These days everyone has some involvement with the financial markets and it is on most peoples minds.

A few weeks ago I wrote that the market was over-sold and I anticipated a bear market rally. What happened after that note was a 900 point gain which stopped abruptly at the 13 day moving average. (this moving average is a smoothed out version of the market's price, tends to be volatile when compared to a 50 day or 200 day moving average and represents a resistance point.)

Subsequent to that gain, the market backed down and then made another attempt to pass the 13 day moving average. This attempt also failed and the Dow again backed off.

This week, a third attempt has so far been successful but not yet in a meaningful way. If the Dow is truly able to sustain a price level above the 13 day moving average it would mean passing a significant resistance level which has vexed the market since May. Between July and October the 13 day moving average was surmounted numerous times, and each time the Dow backed off.

At this point, the market is still over-sold and all we can do here is hope for a non-failing rally that is strong enough to maintain a price level above the 13 day moving average. Looking further out, a true sustained rally would culminate in an attempt at the 50 day moving average which is at about 10,000. And then the drama of testing resistance, up and down, gets replayed at higher levels.

Joe
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Thanksgiving Soup

I have been an inveterate recipe collector for more than forty years. I started clipping from the food page of the New York Times before I knew who Craig Claiborne was and possibly before Julia Child aired her great series on Public Television. The following recipe for Thanksgiving soup gets people to request an encore in following years. The truth is I have no idea where the recipe came from or who wrote it Whoever can claim authorship gets our sincere thanks for a superb job.



Butternut Squash Soup with Marala and Thyme



1 Butternut squash, about 3 lbs., halved with fibers and seeds removed

6 slices bacon, chopped

2 large yellow onions, chopped

1 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

5 1/2 cups low sodium chicken broth

1/3 cup heavy cream

3 T. marsala or dry sherry

Pinch cayenne pepper

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh Thyme leaves



Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Serves 10-12



In a baking pan, place the squash, cut sides down. Add water to the pan toa depth of1/4 inch. Bake until squash is tender, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Using a spoon, scrape the flesh from the skin. You will need 3 3/4 cups for this soup. reserve any remaining squash for another use.



In a large, heavy saucepan, over medium heat, saute the bacon until the fat is rendered, about 3 minutes. Add onions and chopped thyme and saute until tender, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat.



Transfer the onion mixture to a food processor. In 2 or more batches, add the squash and puree until almost smooth, but not totally smooth. Return the puree to the saucepan. Place over medium-low heat and mix in 5 1/2 cups broth. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the cream and the marsala. Add cayenne and season to taste with salt and pepper. If the soup is too thick, thin with additionl broth. Simmer for 5 minutes.



Ladle into bowls and garnish with thyme leaves, if desired.

Turkey Stuffing

Over the years my three favorite turkey stuffings have been Turkey Sausage, Chestnut and Panettone Stuffing; Sara Leah Chase's version of Belmont Inn, Camden Maine, Corn Bread Stufing based on an ambrosial turkey dressing with Sambuca liqueur and day old sambuca corn bread; and Craig Claiborne's Corn Bread Stuffing. Here is my update of Mr. Claiborne's southern gem.

6 T. butter
2 cups finely chopped onion
1 cup finely chopped green or red bell pepper
1 1/2 cups finely chopped heart of celery
4 cups finely crumbled corn bread (you can make your own or simply purchase a corn bread in your market. You can even use corn muffins)
3 cups crumbled toast
2 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup fresh or canned low sodium chicken broth
3 raw eggs
kosher or sea salt to taste
1/2 pound gruyere cheese
1 can creamed corn
1 can Old El Paso chopped green chiles


1. Preheat an oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish

2. In a large fry pan, melt 4 T. butter and add the onion, bell pepper, and celery. Cook, stirring until vegetables are crisp-tender. Set aside

3. Place the corn bread and toast in a large mixing bowl and add the hard-cooked eggs, and the celery mixture. Add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper and the remaining ingredients. Stir to blend.

4. Transfer the stuffing to a buttered baking dish and bake until crispy and golden, about 1 hour.
Serves 8 to 10.

I just looked in my cupboard and I have a can that is labled Yams, and then Sweet Potatoes. If you don't know, there is a significant difference between them. Sweet potatoes tend to be a little moister, more deeply colored and more flavorul than yams.

This year we are cooking Stuffed Sweet Potatoes with Pecan and Marshmallow Streusel, a fantastic offering, but I'd like to show you another time favorite which will get raves from your guests; Sweet Potatoes with Carmelized Apples which I found in Martha Stewart Living in 1995. It is more time consuming but worth the effort.

This dish can be assembled up to a day in advance and refrigerated; be sure to let it come to room temperature before baking.

6 sweet potatoes (about 4 pounds)
1 tsp. salt
3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored
1 T. lemon juice
9 T unsalted butter, plus more for the pan
6 T. packed dark brown sugar
6 T. heavy cream
1/4 cup calvados or brandy
1/4 cup orange juice

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Bake potatoes till soft, 40 to 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel and place flesh in a medium bowl; addd salt and mash with a fork.

Meanwhile, slice apples into 1/8 inch thick slices and place in a medium bowl. Add lemon juice and toss to combine.

In a medium skillet, melt 3 T. butter over medium -high heat. Add 2 T. brown sugar and cook until sugar dissolves. Stir in 4 T. cream and the calvados and cook until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and add to sweet potatoes, mixing well to combine. Transfer potato mixture to a buttered 3 quart ovenproof casserole. Arrange apples over potatoes; set aside.

In a medium skillet, melt remaining 3 T. butter over medium heat. Add remaining 2 T. of cream and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir in orange juice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until thickened and dark brown. Pour over the apples and cover with aluminum foil.

Bake until heated through, about 30 minutes, Remove from oven and serve immediately or let stand at room temperature for up to 30 minutes before serving.

Served 8 to 10

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Roast Turkey with Compound Herb Butter and Marsala

Roasted Turkey with Compound Herb Butter and Marsala



Fourteen pound fresh or frozen turkey

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bell's seasoning

1 medium onion

4 carrots

3 ribs celery

8 T. (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature

2 T. marsala

sprig fresh sage

several sprigs fresh rosemary

sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf



Gravy

3 cups turkey or chicken stock (low sodium)

4 T. unsalted butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 T. chopped parsley

1 T. finly chopped sage

1 tsp. chopped thyme





1. If you are using a frozen turkey, defrost the bird in the refrigerator. Leave at least 3 days to defrost completely. Do not defrost outside the refrigerator because this may cause harmful bacteria to form.



2. After removing the turkey from the brine, pat the turkey dry. and season the inside of the cavity with salt pepper and Bell's seasoning. Let the turkey stand at room temperature for 1 to 1 1/2 hours before cooking.



3. Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to oven to 425 degrees



3. To make the compound butter, in a bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bells seasoning and marsala until smooth, 1 to 2 minues.



4 Place your fingers gently under the breast skin making sure you do not tear the skin. Move your fingers down to the thigh. Spread 2/3 of the butter mixture under the skin and the remaining butter mixture on the outside of the turkey.



5. Place the carrots, celery and onion on bottom of pan and place turkey, breast side down over the vegetables. The vegetables will add to the flavor of the gravy. Roast for 25 minutes and reduce the heat to 325 degrees. Because you brined the bird, constant basting is not necessary. After 2 1/2 hours, test for doneness; an instant read thermometer inserted between the leg and thigh will register 170-175 degrees when done. The breast should register 165 degrees and the thighs, 175 degrees.



6. Tilt the turkey to drain all the juices from the cavity into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a carving board and let it rest for 20 to 40 minutes before carving.



7, Make the gravy: Skim the fat from the drippings on the roasting pan. Set the pan over high heat and add 3 cups chicken broth, bring to a boil. Add the turkey stock and cook for 2 minutes, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan.



8. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter, add the flour and cook over moderate heat until smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain 3 1/2 cups of the liquid in the roasting pan into the saucepan and whisk to blend. Bring the gravy to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley, sage and thyme and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the gravy into a small pitcher and serve the gravy

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

A Thanksgiving to remember

In honor of Craig Claiborne, let me say DeGustibus which literally means "about Tastes." The full latin expression is de gustibus non disputantum (est) which means "there is no diputing about tastes."

This is my first blog and my first blog entry, but if you pay attention and use these recipes, I promise the best Thanksgiving dinner you've ever eaten.

I will be posting a full dinner during this week until you have a great feast to prepare. Keep watching.

The fulcrum at the center of the Thanksgiving dinner is the turkey. When was the last time you eat really good, tasty turkey? Have your turkies tended to be bland, dry and disappointing? Relegate that to the past. From now on your turkey will be moist, and brimming with flavor. Your guests will be thrilled.

Some cooks say to cook at 450 degrees, some say 325 degrees; some say baste every 20 minutes, some say cover with moist cheesecloth. These all have validity but the real secret for great turkey is the brining. Brining transforms ordinary turkey into great turkey. Brining adds flavor and moisture to the turkey without making it salty. It takes a lot of time, but most of it is refrigerator time and you can be done overnight.

For a simple brine:

1. In a large stockpot or even a plastic paint can that you can buy in a hardware store for a few dollars, place 1-2 gallons of water. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add 1 cup kosher salt and 1 cup sugar and stir; Cool at room temperature.

2. Add turkey to the pan. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. Drain the turkey, discard the brine; rinse the bird well. Cut off and reserve wing tips.

For a more exotic brine you could add some or all of the following: 1 cup honey, 3 sprigs each fresh parsley, dill, thyme, tarragon, sage, 1 sprig fresh rosemary, 1 T. mustard seed, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 bay leaves, 4 whole cloves, 1/2 T. juniper berries, 1/2 T. cardamon pods, 1 T. black pepper corns, 1 lemon, halved and slightly squeezed, 3 star anise, 1/2 T. allspice.

If you have all these spices in your cupboard, have fun. If not use what you have on hand. You will be using the fresh herbs to further the bird in coking.