Friday, October 31, 2008

Some Thanksgiving Sides

Joe's Mom's Molded Cranberry with Mixed Fruits

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 package jello, cherry or raspberry
1 package fresh cranberries, rinsed and picked over
1 can mixed fruit

Place sugar and water in medium sized saucepan and combine until dissolved. Add jello and let liquid stand for 5 minutes. Place pan over high heat, stirring until jello is totally dissolved. Inrease heat and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cook, stirring for 10 minutes.

Off heat, transfer mixture to a food processor. Puree mixture, add mixed fruit and pour into a well oiled mold. Cool to room temperature and when firm, refrigerate overnight.

Invert mold over serving plate and cover with a warm towl.


Beth Spizer's Jello Melange

At our last Thanksgiving in New York, Beth, who is part of our extended family brought this dish. It has been in her family for many years. We were both surprised and delighted .

2 packages raspberry jello
1 can blueberries
1 can crushed pineapples
8 oz. sour cream
8 oz. cream cheese
1-2 bags pecans
1/2 cup sugar

1. mix jello with hot water
2. Mix blueberries and pineapple with their juices. Do not add extra cold water
3. In a 9 by 7 inch pan, combine berries with jello and congeal jello in the refrigerator
4. Mix together cream cheese, sour cream and sugar
5. Spread cream cheese mixture over jello mold and sprinkle pecans on top

Thursday, October 30, 2008

A Technical View of The Stock Market from The South

October 30, 2008
Dow-9,079


In addition to being a foodie, I am also a retired stock broker, securities analyst and technical market analyst. So from time to time I will favor you with my thoughts on the stock market. These days everyone has some involvement with the financial markets and it is on most peoples minds.

A few weeks ago I wrote that the market was over-sold and I anticipated a bear market rally. What happened after that note was a 900 point gain which stopped abruptly at the 13 day moving average. (this moving average is a smoothed out version of the market's price, tends to be volatile when compared to a 50 day or 200 day moving average and represents a resistance point.)

Subsequent to that gain, the market backed down and then made another attempt to pass the 13 day moving average. This attempt also failed and the Dow again backed off.

This week, a third attempt has so far been successful but not yet in a meaningful way. If the Dow is truly able to sustain a price level above the 13 day moving average it would mean passing a significant resistance level which has vexed the market since May. Between July and October the 13 day moving average was surmounted numerous times, and each time the Dow backed off.

At this point, the market is still over-sold and all we can do here is hope for a non-failing rally that is strong enough to maintain a price level above the 13 day moving average. Looking further out, a true sustained rally would culminate in an attempt at the 50 day moving average which is at about 10,000. And then the drama of testing resistance, up and down, gets replayed at higher levels.

Joe
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Thanksgiving Soup

I have been an inveterate recipe collector for more than forty years. I started clipping from the food page of the New York Times before I knew who Craig Claiborne was and possibly before Julia Child aired her great series on Public Television. The following recipe for Thanksgiving soup gets people to request an encore in following years. The truth is I have no idea where the recipe came from or who wrote it Whoever can claim authorship gets our sincere thanks for a superb job.



Butternut Squash Soup with Marala and Thyme



1 Butternut squash, about 3 lbs., halved with fibers and seeds removed

6 slices bacon, chopped

2 large yellow onions, chopped

1 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

5 1/2 cups low sodium chicken broth

1/3 cup heavy cream

3 T. marsala or dry sherry

Pinch cayenne pepper

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh Thyme leaves



Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Serves 10-12



In a baking pan, place the squash, cut sides down. Add water to the pan toa depth of1/4 inch. Bake until squash is tender, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Using a spoon, scrape the flesh from the skin. You will need 3 3/4 cups for this soup. reserve any remaining squash for another use.



In a large, heavy saucepan, over medium heat, saute the bacon until the fat is rendered, about 3 minutes. Add onions and chopped thyme and saute until tender, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat.



Transfer the onion mixture to a food processor. In 2 or more batches, add the squash and puree until almost smooth, but not totally smooth. Return the puree to the saucepan. Place over medium-low heat and mix in 5 1/2 cups broth. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the cream and the marsala. Add cayenne and season to taste with salt and pepper. If the soup is too thick, thin with additionl broth. Simmer for 5 minutes.



Ladle into bowls and garnish with thyme leaves, if desired.

Turkey Stuffing

Over the years my three favorite turkey stuffings have been Turkey Sausage, Chestnut and Panettone Stuffing; Sara Leah Chase's version of Belmont Inn, Camden Maine, Corn Bread Stufing based on an ambrosial turkey dressing with Sambuca liqueur and day old sambuca corn bread; and Craig Claiborne's Corn Bread Stuffing. Here is my update of Mr. Claiborne's southern gem.

6 T. butter
2 cups finely chopped onion
1 cup finely chopped green or red bell pepper
1 1/2 cups finely chopped heart of celery
4 cups finely crumbled corn bread (you can make your own or simply purchase a corn bread in your market. You can even use corn muffins)
3 cups crumbled toast
2 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup fresh or canned low sodium chicken broth
3 raw eggs
kosher or sea salt to taste
1/2 pound gruyere cheese
1 can creamed corn
1 can Old El Paso chopped green chiles


1. Preheat an oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish

2. In a large fry pan, melt 4 T. butter and add the onion, bell pepper, and celery. Cook, stirring until vegetables are crisp-tender. Set aside

3. Place the corn bread and toast in a large mixing bowl and add the hard-cooked eggs, and the celery mixture. Add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper and the remaining ingredients. Stir to blend.

4. Transfer the stuffing to a buttered baking dish and bake until crispy and golden, about 1 hour.
Serves 8 to 10.

I just looked in my cupboard and I have a can that is labled Yams, and then Sweet Potatoes. If you don't know, there is a significant difference between them. Sweet potatoes tend to be a little moister, more deeply colored and more flavorul than yams.

This year we are cooking Stuffed Sweet Potatoes with Pecan and Marshmallow Streusel, a fantastic offering, but I'd like to show you another time favorite which will get raves from your guests; Sweet Potatoes with Carmelized Apples which I found in Martha Stewart Living in 1995. It is more time consuming but worth the effort.

This dish can be assembled up to a day in advance and refrigerated; be sure to let it come to room temperature before baking.

6 sweet potatoes (about 4 pounds)
1 tsp. salt
3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored
1 T. lemon juice
9 T unsalted butter, plus more for the pan
6 T. packed dark brown sugar
6 T. heavy cream
1/4 cup calvados or brandy
1/4 cup orange juice

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Bake potatoes till soft, 40 to 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel and place flesh in a medium bowl; addd salt and mash with a fork.

Meanwhile, slice apples into 1/8 inch thick slices and place in a medium bowl. Add lemon juice and toss to combine.

In a medium skillet, melt 3 T. butter over medium -high heat. Add 2 T. brown sugar and cook until sugar dissolves. Stir in 4 T. cream and the calvados and cook until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and add to sweet potatoes, mixing well to combine. Transfer potato mixture to a buttered 3 quart ovenproof casserole. Arrange apples over potatoes; set aside.

In a medium skillet, melt remaining 3 T. butter over medium heat. Add remaining 2 T. of cream and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir in orange juice and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until thickened and dark brown. Pour over the apples and cover with aluminum foil.

Bake until heated through, about 30 minutes, Remove from oven and serve immediately or let stand at room temperature for up to 30 minutes before serving.

Served 8 to 10

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Roast Turkey with Compound Herb Butter and Marsala

Roasted Turkey with Compound Herb Butter and Marsala



Fourteen pound fresh or frozen turkey

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bell's seasoning

1 medium onion

4 carrots

3 ribs celery

8 T. (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature

2 T. marsala

sprig fresh sage

several sprigs fresh rosemary

sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf



Gravy

3 cups turkey or chicken stock (low sodium)

4 T. unsalted butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 T. chopped parsley

1 T. finly chopped sage

1 tsp. chopped thyme





1. If you are using a frozen turkey, defrost the bird in the refrigerator. Leave at least 3 days to defrost completely. Do not defrost outside the refrigerator because this may cause harmful bacteria to form.



2. After removing the turkey from the brine, pat the turkey dry. and season the inside of the cavity with salt pepper and Bell's seasoning. Let the turkey stand at room temperature for 1 to 1 1/2 hours before cooking.



3. Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to oven to 425 degrees



3. To make the compound butter, in a bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bells seasoning and marsala until smooth, 1 to 2 minues.



4 Place your fingers gently under the breast skin making sure you do not tear the skin. Move your fingers down to the thigh. Spread 2/3 of the butter mixture under the skin and the remaining butter mixture on the outside of the turkey.



5. Place the carrots, celery and onion on bottom of pan and place turkey, breast side down over the vegetables. The vegetables will add to the flavor of the gravy. Roast for 25 minutes and reduce the heat to 325 degrees. Because you brined the bird, constant basting is not necessary. After 2 1/2 hours, test for doneness; an instant read thermometer inserted between the leg and thigh will register 170-175 degrees when done. The breast should register 165 degrees and the thighs, 175 degrees.



6. Tilt the turkey to drain all the juices from the cavity into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a carving board and let it rest for 20 to 40 minutes before carving.



7, Make the gravy: Skim the fat from the drippings on the roasting pan. Set the pan over high heat and add 3 cups chicken broth, bring to a boil. Add the turkey stock and cook for 2 minutes, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan.



8. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter, add the flour and cook over moderate heat until smooth, about 2 minutes. Strain 3 1/2 cups of the liquid in the roasting pan into the saucepan and whisk to blend. Bring the gravy to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley, sage and thyme and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the gravy into a small pitcher and serve the gravy

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

A Thanksgiving to remember

In honor of Craig Claiborne, let me say DeGustibus which literally means "about Tastes." The full latin expression is de gustibus non disputantum (est) which means "there is no diputing about tastes."

This is my first blog and my first blog entry, but if you pay attention and use these recipes, I promise the best Thanksgiving dinner you've ever eaten.

I will be posting a full dinner during this week until you have a great feast to prepare. Keep watching.

The fulcrum at the center of the Thanksgiving dinner is the turkey. When was the last time you eat really good, tasty turkey? Have your turkies tended to be bland, dry and disappointing? Relegate that to the past. From now on your turkey will be moist, and brimming with flavor. Your guests will be thrilled.

Some cooks say to cook at 450 degrees, some say 325 degrees; some say baste every 20 minutes, some say cover with moist cheesecloth. These all have validity but the real secret for great turkey is the brining. Brining transforms ordinary turkey into great turkey. Brining adds flavor and moisture to the turkey without making it salty. It takes a lot of time, but most of it is refrigerator time and you can be done overnight.

For a simple brine:

1. In a large stockpot or even a plastic paint can that you can buy in a hardware store for a few dollars, place 1-2 gallons of water. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Add 1 cup kosher salt and 1 cup sugar and stir; Cool at room temperature.

2. Add turkey to the pan. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. Drain the turkey, discard the brine; rinse the bird well. Cut off and reserve wing tips.

For a more exotic brine you could add some or all of the following: 1 cup honey, 3 sprigs each fresh parsley, dill, thyme, tarragon, sage, 1 sprig fresh rosemary, 1 T. mustard seed, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 bay leaves, 4 whole cloves, 1/2 T. juniper berries, 1/2 T. cardamon pods, 1 T. black pepper corns, 1 lemon, halved and slightly squeezed, 3 star anise, 1/2 T. allspice.

If you have all these spices in your cupboard, have fun. If not use what you have on hand. You will be using the fresh herbs to further the bird in coking.